Gucchi Mushroom of District
Doda of Jammu & Kashmir: A Unique Natural Gift from Hills
Dr Narinder Paul
When comes to mind the delicacy
of wild edible mushrooms, the name of gucchi which are also called
morels immediately comes into the mind of those who have either seen it or
tasted its unique flavour.
Majorly it is
found in the conifer forests across temperate regions and is the most expensive
naturally growing variety of mushroom. As if one believes the reports of
scientists and environmentalists; its production is on the decline. Professionals
assign unscientific plucking practices of this mushroom a reason behind its
declining production. Interestingly many might have missed the naturally
growing view of gucchi delightfully grown among the forest trees making
it a fantastic gift of nature and a highly lavish food item. There is a great
craze among those who know about gucchi and they yearn for its use based on
their choice of taste. Admirers of this mushroom cravingly demand and go barmy
for even a spoonful of this commodity in their plates. Its unique flavour and
health benefits further make it a wild specialty.
Gucchi
mushroom (Morchella esculenta L.), commonly known as morel
mushrooms or simply morels belongs to the Morchella family. Being a unique natural forest product and
delicacy of temperate regions, it is known for its production in wilderness. Jammu
and Kashmir state is naturally gifted with the blossoms of this mushroom in both
the divisions. The State
Forest Department earns royalty over gucchi
by leasing out the forest ranges to the private contractors. In
Jammu division, it grows in almost all hilly districts. As regards District
Doda, all the areas are exceptionally gifted by the nature with this delightful
food item. Locally known as “thunthoo”,
it
is a familiar commodity among natives spread in the entire areas of the
district. Local
people in general and those belonging to the farming community in particular traditionally
follow the practice of collection of gucchi in the district from the forest
areas from generations together. Distinguishing Gucchi from other edible
wild types is a very imperative skill needed as a safety measure.
They posses
traditional wisdom and community inherited skills to distinguish it from other mushroom.
Three distinct type
of gucchi has been found in the district according the color i.e.
blackish, brownish and creamy white coloured. Most of the collected gucchi is
exported to the Europe through along chain of middlemen, where there are great
admirers of these edible fungi.
Gucchi holds
a special place among the costlier food items. It is an excellent and elite
food item because of high cost. Eating gucchi is considered a very act of
excellence in elite societies. Its consumers are those who can afford a vegetable
of Rs 1500-2000 per 100 grams. Most of the consumers of gucchi are those
elites who have no thought of where these are grown, how these are collected and
through how many phases these pass before reaching their plates on their dining
tables. Strangely, those who collect gucchi rarely consume it. Majorly they
collect it for
selling to earn money rather than consuming at their households.
Prem Raj, a retired teacher turned farmer from Kelad area of the Bhaderwah
says, “We use only to collect it and don’t consume as 250 grams of it fetches
3000-5000 rupees so, why should we lose handsome amount to be earned in one single
vegetable, we prefer to eat other wild species of mushroom including kundi
and teundh rather than gucchi, which we keep for selling.” He also told
that he used to
collect and sell gucchi since the year 1965 when it was sold at the rate
of Rs 20 per kg, in 1967 the rate was Rs 25 per kg. It proves that it was a
high value delicacy earlier also. Another elder Swami Raj from the village
Droundi reported that he is witnessing the farmers collecting and selling gucchi
since 1942 when its cost was Rs 2.50 per Kg. The market trends now are not
encouraging for the gucchi collectors.
It constitutes
the quickest means of earning for the forest dwellers of the district, which
have their socio-economic bond with this mushroom. Collecting and selling
guchhi is an important means of supplementing their household income.
A peculiar
collection system as well as pattern is followed by the collectors which are
the local residents in general. Children and women are the collectors from the
vicinity of villages and outside the forests. However, males in groups
penetrate deep inside the dense forests for its collection. It is majorly sold in
the dry condition. It is either sundried singly or making garlands or is hanged
in the kitchen, exposed to the heat of the traditional chulla and is
then put in the storage bags waiting for the agents of the contractors to
collect it from the doorsteps of the collectors. Middlemen incise huge share of
the hard labour of the collectors of this mushroom who are at the tail ends. Farmers who collect this mushroom from the
forest areas reported that during 2013, they sold it at the rate of Rs
16,000-18,500 per Kg, in 2014 the sale rate declined to Rs 15,500-16,300 per
Kg; in 2015 they got Rs 9,500-11,700 per kg. In 2016, farmers sold it at the
rate of Rs 9,300-12,500 per Kg. Farmers get quite high rates during the years
of low production. Whereas, higher production leads to low sale rates at
farmers’ level. This year, the production of gucchi is expected to be
low due to abrupt rise in temperature during the month of April. The farmers
however, are expecting high rates this year.
For
years the technique of artificial growing of morel was thought impossible. Many
tried and failed to cultivate morels indoors. Ronald D. Ower reported the first
success in 1982 and was eventually awarded a patent along with Gary Mills and
James Malachowski. Their work ignited the hope for indoor morel growing. But
the uniqueness of natural growing gucchi with its distinct taste and natural
existence of gucchi of Jammu region has no substitute which is
a
blessing in disguise for the forest dwellers and consumers as well. What is
needed is to conserve our natural resources so that the cruel hands of
development could not pound the eco-balance and snatch the bundles of naturally
growing gifts including gucchi. Moreover, the need of the hour is to document
and refine the traditional plucking methods and then to train the gucchi collectors
in scientifically refined methods of plucking and value addition at the farmers’
level. The development of value added products of this unique natural product
can not only save the native guchhi collectors from middlemen but also create demand
among the local elite consumers (©
Author, 2017).
(The
Author is from Krishi Vigyan Kendra Doda, SKUAST-Jammu)
+91-9419325271
narinderpaul1977@gmail.com
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